Perpetual Travelers

Recently received this question:

“AM LOOKING FOR A LABADOR RETREIVER PUPPY AT THIS MOMENT - I AM WANTING TO GET THE PUPPY TAUGHT TO AIR AND GROUND SCENT HUNT FOR SEARCH AND RESCUE WORK AS WELL AS MYSELF TAUGHT

WHERE DO I GO?”

Here is what I answered:

From my research on the net (using search-and-rescue-dog-training), I’ve found the following resources:

Search Dog Network, Inc.
Selecting a Potential SAR Dog
http://www.searchdogs.org/articles/selectingsardog.html

(most of the links at the bottom don’t work)

SARBC
Search and Rescue Society of British Columbia
http://www.sarbc.org/dinfo.html

National Association for Search and Rescue
http://www.nasar.org/nasar/
Particularly view the Education links

North American Search Dog Network
http://www.nasdn.org/index.htm

American Rescue Dog Association, Inc.
http://www.ardainc.org/main.html

Since you don’t indicate where you’re located, I added in the BC info. It appears to be an excellent information resource.

You might also check with your local Fire Department and Police Department for information on local SAR dog teams and contact them to find out where they trained.

It appears from the information available, that some of the training available may be iffy. Find out from any potential trainers how much time they’ve spent in the field and what certifications they hold, not only in SAR, but in other work, too, such as Agility Titles, Obedience Titles, Field Trial or Tracking Titles. I would definately check the NASAR link and look at the courses they offer under their Education link.

As for finding your puppy, I’d suggest locating a few Lab breeders in your area and ask them about the people they have placed puppies with. Do any of them use the dogs for SAR? Ask, too, about dogs from their lines that have been used in hunting, agility, obedience training and such. You’re looking for lines that are “working” dogs. Those are the lines that would probably work best for this.

The SARBC site lists a great many “traits” that would be of use to a SAR dog, like agility and obedience.

If you’re in a hurry to get into the training, you might want to talk to your local Lab Rescue group for an older dog to begin with. Labs don’t generally physically mature until they are 18-24 months old and emotionally later than that, so you’re looking at a minimum of about two years before the dog will be stable enough to really do the SAR work. Socializing the young dog is extremely important to move this stability along.

The training for you will take a good while, too. Not only do you have to train the dog, but there are aspects you need training in, such as, handling the dog in different terrains, first aid for your SAR dog (and yourself and others), physical conditioning for you and the dog. Then, if you choose to specialize, there is more training that will have to be done.

It is not going to be a six- or eight-week course and you’re ready. It is going to be an ongoing committment for a long time. It can get pretty expensive, too, because if your SAR team is called to other areas to help, you’ll have to get there, take care of your housing needs and meals, and any other expenses that occur. Too, if you can’t be gone from your job for long periods, what will you do in a longer-term situation
where you and your dog are needed for weeks at a time?

I’m certainly not trying to discourage you, I think it is wonderful that you want to get into the work–there are many more teams needed for it. But, it is important to know that this is not going to be something you can generally do over a weekend like an obedience trial or show.

Best of luck on finding your SAR dog and training and let me know how it goes.

C. Rogers Upson has been training dogs and studying them for nearly 40 years. Her website is Dog Potentials and she has two dog-related stores at Keeping to the Borders and Dog Potentials-The Store.

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For owners who like to keep their pampered pets near them
wherever they go, pet carriers are the perfect solution. For those pets that must travel in the cargo, a quality dog crate is the safest way to go. These days, flying with your dog or cat is easier than ever before. However, air travel with your dog or cat comes with its own set of challenges, and it’s best to be prepared to reduce stress for both you and your pet on traveling day. First of all, all airline policies are different concerning pet travel and you need reservations. Be sure to ask what kind of pet carriers they accept or try our Sherpa Delta pet carrier and the Sherpa Backpack which are airline approved. Also, it’s important to ask what documents the airline requires such as vaccination records or a health certificate. So whether you’re traveling with a pet carrier or a dog crate, preparation is key.

Even with all your preparation, fear of flying can still be an issue for your dog or cat. Our Chihuahua, Sox has anxiety every time we fly even though he sits right at our feet. At first, we thought of giving him tranquilizers, but we learned that tranquilizers shouldn’t be given to pets before boarding because they can increase the dog’s risks of accidents and can make it hard for them to adjust to temperature changes and turbulence. Worst of all, they can impede breathing. The before the flight.

Whether using a dog crate or pet carrier, it’s a good idea to get your dog used to it for about a month before your travel date. To make the flight easier on your dog, don’t feed him for 4 to 6 hours before, but small amounts of water are fine. Just in case your dog should get lost in the airport, it’s a good idea to carry a picture of him or her.

Every time you fly with your pet, you have a choice between taking them on board with you in a small dog carrier (unless they’re a large breed, of course) or putting them in the cargo. Cargo holds can be hot in the summer and cold in the winter, and the Humane Society of the United States strongly recommends that you not ship your dog in the cargo unless there is no alternative. Each year there are fatal accidents when, because of runway delays, dogs suffer heat stroke in the bottom of airplanes. In fact, most airlines refuse to check dogs between May and September.

If you must use the cargo, then here are some safety tips:

1. Use a direct flight

2. Travel on the same flight and ask to watch while he is being loaded and unloaded.

3. DO NOT ship pug-nosed dogs such as Pekingese, Pugs, Bulldogs & Chow Chows. Their short nasal passages are vulnerable to oxygen deprivation and heatstroke.

4. If traveling during summer choose early morning or late evening flights. In winter, afternoon flights are best.

5. Attach 2 pieces of I. D. to their collar 1) Permanent address and phone no. 2) address and no. where you can be reached while away from home.

6. Don’t leave anything in the dog crate the dog can choke on.

7. Make sure crate door is secure. Above door write “Do Not open this door with out permission from owner or licensed vet.”

8. Arrive 1/2 hour earlier than normal but don’t let them take the dog until the last minute.

9. NO SEDATIVES - important to reiterate

Be sure to put ID on both the dog and the outside of the dog crate. If you can’t get a direct flight, make sure you have a long enough lay over to walk your dog. Also, make absolutely sure that the dog crate is large enough for your dog to turn around with ease. The best crates for space and quality are our Kennel dog crates.

For those who are definitely taking their dogs or cats in the passenger cabin, the Sherpa pet carrier is preferable to a hard sided pet crate. Sherpa pet carriers have mesh panels to prevent claustrophobia, a reinforced bottom, an adjustable shoulder strap that doubles as a leash and a roomy zippered pocket for your pet’s travel essentials. The Sherpa pet carrier have accommodating sizes, are approved by airlines and are ideal as cat carriers and small dog carriers. Whichever way you decide to go, just be sure to book direct flight to minimize stress.

Grant Carroll proud father of three dogs and co-owner of http://www.littlepamperedpets.com with Dog Clothes and Small Dog Sweaters.
Also visit Little Pampered Babies where you can find Unique Baby Clothes and Toddler Clothing.

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So you’re the proud owner of a new puppy. Now the fun begins and
you have years of companionship ahead of you.

Unfortunately you are also the not so proud owner of soggy
carpets - right? Obviously you quickly decide this has got to
stop before your floors are ruined. Well how do you stop it?
It’s time to properly housebreak that new puppy.

Housebreaking may sound painful and time consuming, but relax
it’s really not that difficult. All dogs’ have a natural
tendency to want to keep their living area clean. So by firmly
establishing, in your pets mind, that this is his home you will
have helped solve the problem all by itself. Normally this takes
time but there are several ways you can “speed up” this process.

First you want to be sure your pet is healthy to start with or
your training may be all for naught. If you have not taken your
pet to the vet already, make an appointment immediately to get
them checked over. Your vet will check for overall healthiness
and for any conditions that might make house training difficult
- such as cystitis and kidney or bladder dysfunctions.

While your pet is visiting the veterinarian, ask the vet to
check for worms and parasites by way of a fecal exam. Normally a
vet will do this anyway but it is always best to ask.

Please bear in mind the truthfulness behind moms’ wisdom — “You
are what you eat.” Poor quality dog food, or snacks from your
plate, will contribute to a poor nutritional state with your
pet. In addition, it can cause digestive problems resulting in
loose stools contributing to your puppy’s inability to control
him/her self.

The number one factor in housebreaking your pet is very close
supervision. Dogs, and puppies, learn by repetition so this is
absolutely necessary. When your dog shows signs of needing to
relieve him/her self immediate action must be taken to
get the animal to its designated “bathroom” area. Above all else
consistency in this training is absolutely critical. Just
because it’s cold or dark outside is no excuse and is
unacceptable as your pet doesn’t care all it knows is it has to
go! This close supervision, during housebreaking, is necessary
as it gives you the opportunity to learn your dog’s special
quirks.

These may be the need to urinate, or potty, right after eating,
or it could simply be certain actions your puppy takes just
prior to soiling the floor. Without this close supervision you
will miss these actions and not understand how to respond in the
future. But more importantly, it allows you to correct a
situation while it is still fresh in the dogs mind. Even though
dogs are very intelligent creatures their short term memory is
not a strong point and correcting them after several minutes
have passed serves no real purpose except to confuse your pet.

Another key to housebreaking is to give your dog a limited
amount of space. Using baby gates across doorways or a pet crate
will help to confine the dog to a certain area while helping the
new puppy to recognize this as his living space. The natural
tendency of dogs is to go outside of their living space to
urinate.

By making this association for your pet it will make your job a
lot easier. Lining this living space with old news papers is an
excellent idea, especially at first, as it facilitates a much
easier cleanup if any accidents occur. Common sense should tell
you that some surfaces are more pet-friendly than others so try
to confine your new pet to areas with tile or vinyl floors.
These are much easier to clean and they do not retain odors like
carpets do. If at all possible avoid letting them have access to
any carpet or hardwood floors as they will retain odors and can
be extensively damaged by an errant pup. This was the mistake we
made with our first puppy and he ruined an area of our hardwood
flooring.

Always remember to limit the amount of water your dog has access
to at the end of the day otherwise you’ll be making a walk with
your pet during the middle of the night. It is strongly
advisable to take a quick walk outside at regularly timed
intervals during training so it helps your pet to set their own
internal schedule. Be certain to use a consistent keyword to
tell your pet why you are out in the yard such as “potty” or
“toilet” or anything of your choosing. Do NOT return indoors
until they have relieved themselves. Always remember to give
lots of praise when your dog relieves itself in the appropriate
places such as on newspapers or outdoors and be consistent in
your training as this is the key to success.

If your pet does have an accident indoors you must immediately
correct the animal. Then clean the area using some non-ammonia
based cleaner and an Enzyme based deodorizer. If you do not
thoroughly clean, and deodorize, the area removing all odors the
animal will repeat the behavior again - in the same area!

By following these simple rules your floors and your new pet
will be able to coexist peacefully. In addition, you and your
pet will get through this with relatively little stress while
building a good bond between you.

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Key Facts:

Size: Giant
Height: 58 - 71 cm (23 - 28 inches)
Weight: 38 - 56 kg (85 - 125 lb)
Life Span: 13 years
Grooming: Medium
Exercise: Demanding
Feeding: Demanding
Temperament: Sociable & loyal
Country of Origin: North America (Alaska)
AKC Group: Working

Temperament:
The Alaskan Malamute is dignified, friendly and affectionate. Alaskan Malamutes are not one-man dogs and are friendly to all. They are intelligent and able to be trained for a variety of jobs, such as guide dogs. Alaskan Malamute’s make very loyal and devoted companions, but can be aggressive towards other dogs. Alaskan Malamutes have tremendous strength and stamina and therefore require an owner with experience and strength to apply the brakes.

Grooming:
The coat of the Alaskan Malamute does not require much in the way of grooming. During moulting it is best to use a coarse comb with a double row of teeth to remove dead hairs.

Exercise:
They require a great deal of exercise on a daily basis. Alaskan Malamute’s need to stay on a lead unless they are firmly under control as they’re liable to run off.

History:
Alaskan Malamutes got their name from a native tribe in the Artic called that Mahlemuts. Their origin is rather obscure, but it is generally believed that they have been with the eskimos for two to three thousand years. The Alaskan Indians found Alaskan Malamutes invaluable for their ability in droving, herding, hunting and hauling heavy sleds.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Hardy, compact and well-built.
Colour: Usually light grey or black and white.
Coat: The outercoat is thick and coarse and the undercoat is woolly, dense and oily.
Tail: Full and furry - carried over the back in a curved shape.
Ears: Small, upright and triangular.
Body: Powerful, well-developed, deep chest, straight back sloping gently to the hips with a very muscular loin.

Additional Comments:

Alaskan Malamutes are delightful and challenging with their extreme strength and stamina. They require training from early puppyhood to be controllable in a household situation.

About the Author

This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/alaskan_malamute/

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